There is a very simple check for a loose timing chain due to a broken tensioner, worn gears, or a stretched chain. Pull the distributor cap and observe the rotor position. Take a breaker bar and a appropriate socket and put it on the crankshaft damper pulley Live. •. If you have some strange performance problems like hesitation, misfires, or perhaps even a check engine light for a cam or crank sensor, you might want to check for timing chain slack. If the cam and crank don't move smoothly, engine performance will be effected. This test can only be performed on certain engines but it can be an.
To accurately identify the amount of wear in a timing chain, begin by removing all of the spark plugs and the distributor cap. With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain Yes, was planning to throw the chain and the sprockets away, but wanted to learn how to measure a timing chain on the old chain, and, like you suggested, try to see the difference. Took the chain and sprockets off now, but I guess I made a bigger mistake: First thing was that the pin was in the spocked and just barely out enough to take the. Can someone please tell me how to check timing chain slack in VCDS? I just recently got my VCDS and I can't figure out which group to look at. On my other Audi I used my Xtool VAG401 and I would go to measuring block 93 and look at the Bank 1 and Bank 2 Intake and Exhaust values and add the bank 1 intake and exhaust together to get the total value Degrees of backlash is another way to check timing chain stretch. This is especially helpful when checking and assembeld engine in the car. Rock the balancer back and forth with a breaker bar on the balance bolt and watch the timing mark. More than a degree or two of backlash indicates time to replace
. To measure this, do the following: Get a socket which fits the front balancer crank shaft bolt. Get a breaker bar which is long enough to turn the crank using it 1. Rotate the crank clockwise to take up the slack on the left side. 2. Establish a measuring point on the block and measure from this point to the chain
To adjust the cam timing you'll need to pull the oil pump and adjust that crank sprocket. There should be 2 sets of timing marks on the crank sprocket, one set at the very front of the crank sprocket to line up with the key on the crank, and the other set of marks on the gear itself to line up with the cam gear when you install the cam When a timing chain starts to fail due to slack, normally caused by the belt tensioners weakening, it rattles and chatters. You will be able to hear a clicking, chattering noise coming from the area around your cam shaft if your timing chain has slack in it Turn the crank so the chain is tight on the one side..Put a straight edge on top of the chain (on the opposite side of the engine) and measure how much the chain deflects when you push on it about half way between the gears...Factory specs allow half an inch of play...A little slack is normal
Alkraut. While changing out the timing sprockets and chain is a good idea, chain stretch is unlikely. Short and strong chain, and will only get slightly longer from wear. Check the shaft keys at the sprockets and also the distributor gear. Internal distributor drive gear not easy to see without teardown If the timing chain begins to wear out, small metal pieces can break off the chain and find their way into the oil pan. When you have your oil changed, and the mechanic tells you there were small pieces of metal inside the oil as it drained or in the filter, it's a good indication that your timing chain is beginning to fail Check the Oil Level First If the oil pump is ingesting air due to a low oil level, the timing chain adjuster can't properly tension the timing chain. If possible, remove the oil filler cap to inspect for engine oil sludge under the camshaft cover. If the engine is heavily sludged, it's going to be nearly impossible to clean
For a more definitive test check chain wear by trying to pull the chain off the sprocket, not by apparent slack. A good chain will barely pull off the sprocket. A slop chain and/or a worn sprocket will pull off and move chain links next to it. Tells you more about condition than just checking free play between sprockets Timing chain slack. Jump to Latest Follow Discussion Starter · #1 · Oct 31, 2008. I got a 1988 22R truck with 145,000 miles and took off the valve cover today to check to see if my timing chain guides were still in place. Both sides are still there to my suprise. But I checked the tension on both sides of chain with a screwdriver.
NOTE When moving timing chain to check free play, ensure that it is moved parallel to front face of engine block. 2. Applying finger pressure on inside of timing chain, move timing chain outward as far as it will go. With timing chain in maximum outward position, set dial indicator to O 587 Posts. #5 • Jun 13, 2011. I put a new chain on one of BB many years back; went to the dyno and after about 20 pulls, we went to test another cam. I was SHOCKED when we pulled the timing cover and I the chain had slack like I had run it for many thousands of miles. Engine guy said they stretch like that after a few miles/ dyno pulls and. . They wear very slowly after that. What I am saying is a brand new timing chain has zero slack, then a few degrees of slack after a couple hundred miles. After that it gains slack very slowly
Ah. So maybe you are a little ahead of yerself then. If you want to check out the slack and timing, get a 19mm bolt and turn the crank clockwise and then see how it it, thsi is more realistic. While yer at it set it to TDC so you can check the valves as Chase mentioned Timing chains can be adjusted to either loosen or tighten the timing chain so that it runs smoothly along with the timing chain tensioner. Too much pressure is applied to the timing chain can be just as bad as allowing slack in the timing chain which is why adjustments can be made to either apply more pressure to the timing chain or allow more. With the engine not running (!) and key 'off', rock the crankshaft forward and backward, you can feel the slack in the chain. Any more than 5 degrees (clockwise to counter clockwise at the timing mark) and you have a loose chain and/or plastic teeth worn on the cam sprocket. 10 degrees and hurry and pull the cover...20 degrees or more
Yes,it should align up with #1 cylinder.You can also look at the slack in the chain,by using a breaker bar to move crankshaft & watch the distributor rotor.There should be a little for a 200,000 mile engine,but not a bunch.Think of the breaker on the crank as a dial on a 360 degrees scale.5 degrees is ok 10 degrees or more it too much Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark T of the lower timing chain cover. Check that the mark of the camshaft timing sprockets are in straight line positioning on the cylinder head surface. If not rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Install slack side timing chain guide and timing chain tension guide Align the timing marks on the crank pulley and the camshaft sproket to their upmost level. Then loosen the nuts. Pull out the crank pulley and sproket. the new timing chain has a separate link that is identified. And this must be put into proper position. If you don't, you will wreck the engine
Re: 5.7L timing chain slack, issue or not? I think it would be hard to tell how much slack you have that way. You may be simply see backlash in the dist. gear. If there is play in the timing chain, I would definitely pull the timing cover and check it out As long as it has a little slack once it's on you will be alright. A friend had a rebuilt long block and when I was setting his valves I could hear his timing chain making noise. When I checked it, that thing was so tight it was scarey. We took that chain off and I had an extra new chain I gave him a deal on and then it was alright Unless of course the timing chain came off all together. There are too many parts between the crank and the rotor and there for the slack is going to be exponentially more than what is going on between the crank and cam. I vote change it to aleviate your fears. You have to take the cover off to check it anyway might as well just change it
When I did the valve cover gasket, I could see the chain was slack between the cam sprockets. Also had an intermittent rattle about 3000 rpm, did everything like new tensioner hoping to put it off till next spring, but the weather forecast got warmer for a good window of opportunity. Never did a timing chain before, so it's good experience those chains will last longer than you think and a ok chain will have more than 1/8 inch of slack in it. I put new ones in that have had more that 1/8 inch in them. I would recomend anything over 200k you change it and overhaul the case. thats if you care about it Well I did some checking. The timing set in my 68 has 8 degrees slack measured on the crank pulley. The chain in my 1970 Eldorado, with 1000 mile on the timing set, has only 1 degree . So the timing set in my '68 is not as good as I hoped..... To make sure I used a endoscoop (snake-cam) to check the chain and sprocket
This is not a substitute for a full chain check, but at least you don't need to get the cam covers off. 3. Check for slack on the right hand (lagging or return) side of the chain (it will be your left side facing the engine, standing at the left front fender (wing). Use a thin wire hook (cloth hanger works fine) to check the chain slack Mercedes-Benz Tinkering - 380 V8 Timing Chain Inspection The first thing anybody asks you when you say you have a 380SL for sale is: Does it have the double-row timing chain? The timing chain issue is a well-known problem with the early eighties' US-version 380 V8 engines Check the chain slack again, and re-adjust if it changed when the axle was tightened. Re-tighten the nuts on the torque link, and torque to 24 ft-lbs. Install a new cotter pin for the axle (you may have to move the crown nut a little bit to get a cotter pin hole lined up). You can get an assortment of cotter pins from an auto parts store, or.
Check your timing.:thumbup: Save Share. Reply. T. The Greek · Registered. Joined Nov 12, 2006 · 3,166 Posts #4 · Feb 6, 2009. Too much slack in the timing chain can alter the timing and this can cause an overheating problem. It would be a good move to replace the timing chain and sprockets while you have the timing cover off. Their cost is. A worn timing chain which adds extra slop and inconsistent chain tension to the valvetrain certainly won't make the tensioner's job any easier. So it makes a lot of sense to keep tabs on the condition of the chain itself from time to time. When I was working on a Kawasaki KX250F engine build I took the time to do some comparisons which. With the bike on the central stand, rotate the real wheel, while checking the slack. If you notice the slack varies as the wheel turns, the chain may be stretched at places, or simply too dry. Oil it well and ride it a few hundred yards, then chec.. You can also use a timing light to see if there's too much slack in the belt/chain. Hook the timing light leads to the battery and the No. 1 spark plug wire and start the engine. Aim the timing light at the crankshaft pulley and timing indicator
The chain tensioner (2) attempts to take up the excess slack in the timing chain. When the tensioner piston extends, the chain is pulled tight. Removing this slack on one side of the chain also causes the cam sprocket (3) to rotate and change camshaft timing on that bank It uses OIL pressure to keep tension. If its not running it will have slack. The only way to properly check if its good is to remove it and measure the chain length and the thickness of the tensioner foot. Quit using 10w40 oil. That black shit if from the over abundance of parifin wax in 10w 40 dino Brand new Cloyes 9-1132. About 1/2 of slack in the chain. I'm not crazy right.. this is NOT normal. It has more slack than the original (100k miles) chain I took off. I was expecting the chain to be pretty dang snug. I'm planning to send this back... but wanted to check with the SBF.. Two chains were used; a brand new chain with a pitch of 0.5 inch (12.7mm) and an old worn chain. The percentage elongation between old and new chains is about 2.5% which is way above the max allowable on an actual engine of 1%, but because my model is not to scale, will show the effects more clearly
Timing chain slop is more from the thing flopping around in different ways and which way it's flopping at the moment the spark happens to be triggered. Anyway, too much theory here. If it's more than a couple degrees of float in the timing, it's not the timing chain (unless it's so worn out it's just about ready to let go) Check the chain and see how much slack is there. Then decide. If you replace the chain you need to replace the crank and cam gear also. Know as a timing set. If you only replace the chain it will wear quickly and you'll be back at square one. Don't forget the 3 seals on the timing cover. The waterpump seal & opti seal will come in the timing. I didn't check the play in degrees, but I'll guess it's probably 3-4 degrees of slack. When I degreed the cam in I made sure to approach all the readings through forward crank rotation so the slack was on the back of the chain. The chain doesn't have near enough slop to jump a tooth and the Ford service manual allows up to a 1/2 of travel As the Cam Chain wears (Stretches) it makes more noise. You usually have to set the engine to some kind of mark on the flywheel. This moves all the Cam Chain slack to where the adjuster is. Then loosen the pinch bolt on the adjuster. If it's well worn you will hear a muffled bang or pop as the adjuster takes up the slack in the Cam Chain I really like My 2021 Sierra is currently in the shop having the transmission removed so they can check the timing chain slack. The truck is throwing a P0016 (misfire) and a P208B (Def pump). They flashed it, and checked all the connections to the effected sensors and even checked all the teeth using a scope
And the main point is that it is then not necessary to dismantle the entire front of the engine to determine the slack of the timing chain, but it merely requires a Fingerspitzgeful check of the crankshaft rotation vs. camshaft movement The 6.2 Diesel has a 6 camshaft sprocket and 3 crank sprocket and a chain with 48 links of 1/2 length each Tacoma; Lower; Slack Side. Timing Chain - Repair or Replace Your engine's timing chain can stretch over time resulting in a check engine light that comes along with excessive noise from your engine's timing cover. If the chain has broken, which is a rare occurrence, the engine will not start.. Step 4: Remove the timing belt cover mounting bolts. Then remove the timing belt cover. Step 5: Check the tension on the timing belt. Press on the belt between the pulleys. It should not move more than about ¼ inch. Tip: If the belt is loose, then the tensioner should be replaced. This is also a good time to check the timing belt Rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation to bring these marks into alignment without putting slack in the timing chain. Notes and cautions: Do not rotate the crankshaft backward (counterclockwise when looking at the front of the engine), or this will put slack in the chain and throw off the mark alignment check
Timing Chain Slack , How much ? UPDATE General FSJ Tec When most people hear the word chain, they imagine a short-link chain, which consists of connected metal rings, or the type of chain used on a motor- cycle or bicycle 1. Shift gears so that your chain is in the big ring and smallest gear on the cassette (e.g. 53-11T) 2. Pull the chain at the front of the chainring as shown. If the chain starts to lift off the.